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Meet of
minds
Mani Mantapam in
Kanchi would be a temple dedicated not
to any God but to learning
itself! VATSALA VEDANTAM
witnesses the impossible dream
taking shape
From time immemorial, the name Kanchi has
evoked images either of a Kamakshi temple, a Kamakoti Peetam or a silk
weaver’s ancestral home. One rarely thought of this hoary place as an
international centre of learning. Where research scholars and students of
world religions would one day assemble to exchange and generate
philosophic thoughts. When the small temple town would regain its
forgotten glory...
After all, Kancheepuram did flourish as a centre of
literary eminence at one time. It was home to a galaxy of distinguished
poets and scholars. It even had institutions for advanced study known as
ghatikas where thousands of students studied the various branches of the
Vedas and scriptures. And, what more, Ramanujacharya, the 11th century
saint and founder of the Vishistadwaita philosophy had his early education
here and entered the ascetic order. Studded with temples, steeped in
mythology, Kanchi is also the proud home of the hereditary trustees of Adi
Sankara’s first peetham - the Kamakoti - also known as the Sarvagna
Peetham. It also has the proud distinction of being the one and only
southern mokshapuri of India - the place where one has to start or end
one’s life in order to get deliverance from the cycle of birth and death.
In all, Kanchi conjures romance and magic.
So, when trustee Atmanathan
spoke about this 300 foot long monument in stone - the dream child of a
railway employee called Pradosham Venkataramier - that was rising in
Orirukkai just beyond the temple town on the bank of the Palar river, and
described how it would capture a 2500 year history “starting with Adi
Sankara and his unbroken line of 70 descendants”, the magnitude of the
Satabdhi Mani Mantapam slowly began to sink in. When he added that M S
Subbulakshmi had initiated the project with a donation of Rs 30 lakh and
the proceeds of all her recorded music, I knew that this was one dream
that had to come true. Subbulakshmi and Sadasivam have supported several
programmes in the past. Their house Sivam-Subham is again the nucleus for
this dream.
A massive 21st century temple that would recreate the
architectural splendours of the Chola and Pallava dynasties? A temple
dedicated not to any god - but to learning itself in memory of one of the
most liberally enlightened of all those acharyas. Where there is no idol
waiting to be worshiped. But where spirituality will unfold itself as
“devotees” come to pray and stay to learn. Where thinkers and scholars and
philosophers will be inspired by the erudition and greatness of one who
looked like a mendicant and lived like a saint. The plain wooden sandals
that he wore will be the only icons in this temple to remind visitors that
such a saint scholar did live and walk in these parts. And, that is what
Mani Mantapam is all about. A memorial to remind visitors that it is
possible to be spiritual without getting bogged in narrow schisms. I
decided to go to Kancheepuram to see this impossible dream taking
shape.
The road to Orirukkai en route to Utharamerur tells its own tale
of religious integration. Driving down the scenic highway towards
Kancheepuram, you can see a Jesuit missionary school showing the way to
Sriperambudur, the hallowed birth place of the Sri Vaishnavite saint
Ramanuja. Just as you can see the devout offering prayers in the opposite
mosque even as you receive the prasadam from the present Sankaracharya in
the Kamakoti Peetam. That is the magic of Kanchi where all religions blend
and survive with no rancour. Which is why the late Paramacharya -
Chandrasekharendra Saraswathi or Periyaval as he was fondly known - chided
his followers who wanted this particular mosque shifted from the proximity
of the Sri Matham by telling them: “I can at least hear the devotees over
there praying five times a day. Why should I then move their
temple?”
There are many instances in his life to illustrate his liberal
outlook. The story of a Christian devotee D’Souza who met him during one
of his padayatras to tell him how he could not conduct his daughter’s
marriage because he could not raise the money, is yet another instance of
Periyaval’s religious attitudes. He calmly gave him a silver plate
containing money, a gold chain with mangalsutra and other gifts just
presented to him by a Hindu couple celebrating their 60th wedding
anniversary!
Perhaps, the Mani Mantapam is a fitting tribute to the
sage of Kanchi. It will not only commemorate his liberal teachings. But,
it may even generate more scholars and thinkers of his
genre.
*****
You can hear them even as you approach the site
situated on the northern banks of the Palar river. A hundred and ten
artisans and sculptors chiselling away on huge slabs of stone. They come
from far flung districts, some even from towns in far off Andhra Pradesh.
Some of them are trained professionals from schools of architecture and
sculpture. Many others are the talented descendants of traditional master
sculptors, trained by their own ancestors. But, they are all dedicated to
this massive work they have undertaken. To them, it is a labour of love
where each one is making a significant contribution. They are all proud to
be associated with this remarkable monument dedicated to the memory of a
20th century saint. Both in concept and execution, the Mani Mantapam is a
one-in-a-million effort which seeks to revive the 1000 year old
architectural grandeur of ancient dynasties.
“Our goal is to give a
concrete shape to the teachings of the Paramacharya,” says Atmanathan who
hopes that this temple of learning will be an inspiration to future
generations. Its physical appearance has to be as magnificent as its
goals. This is where the Ramakrishna Math comes into picture. It has
donated giant granite slabs which have gone into the making of its
impressive features like the Simha-Mukha Sthambam or the beautiful
Saptha-Swara Sthamba or the huge vimanam (dome) resting on four pillars
and embedded with real rudrakshas and surrounded by delicately curved
stone chains.
According to Ganapathi Sthapathi, chief architect of this
project and a master sculptor par excellence, the Satabdhi Mani Mandapam
will incorporate the best of Chola, Nayaka and Pallava traditions. Its
four main hallways called the Maha Mantapam, Praja Mantapam, Prakara
Mantapam and Paduka Mantapam will be supported by 151 magnificently carved
pillars. The outer walls of the inner prakara and the inner walls of the
outer prakara will depict the life and work of the 68th Sankaracharya,
Chandrasekharendra Saraswathi, who ascended the Kanchi Kamakoti Peetham at
age 13 and reigned as the pontiff for the next 87 years. Popularly known
as Periyaval, he was not cast in the usual mould of Sankaracharyas. Far
from cloistering himself into a life of prayer and penance, he opened the
minds of his disciples to the outside world where science and technology
dominated. He enriched his own mind with studying subjects as far removed
from his Peetham as photography, music and languages. Quick to know and
appreciate the virtues of different cultures, he also preached the value
of understanding one’s own culture first.
Nicknamed “a walking saint”
by his followers and admirers, the sage of Kanchi ushered in a new era in
the history of the Kamakoti Peetham. This is what the Mani Mantapam hopes
to portray to all those who will make the journey to Orirukkai. If a queen
of Greece could be moved by the simple teachings of this Sankaracharya to
return again and again to Kanchi to meet him, future scholars may be
inspired by his life and example to emulate his ideas. Which is the reason
why the only symbols to be placed in the Garba-Griha (sanctum sanctorum)
will be the padukas or wooden sandals worn by the Sankaracharya. No godly
figures will adorn its walls except the unbroken line of 70 Acharyas who
guided the Peetham over these last 2500 years. The creators of Mani
Mantapam hope to provide a visual commentary on one segment of India’s
spiritual and cultural heritage. Not Saivism or Vaishnavism or any other
ism will predominate here. According to them, it will be a meeting ground
of fine minds and nothing more. |
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SUNDAY HERALD
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